Photos:
0900 A very blustery, grey overcast day does not allow Derbyshire to be seen in it’s best light and the town of Matlock within the Derwent valley below me is viewed through a light drizzle under clouds scudding overhead. I’m trying to stay on high roads as I think I will need to climb again ere long and thread my way through the estates and roads of the upper parts of the town. Eventually I have to drop down to the valley floor near Haddon Hall and it is tough going against the wind.
1022 The sky threatens rain which has so far not arrived. My aim is to join the eastern end of the Monsal Trail near Bakewell. The Trail is 8 ½ miles long and formed from the old Midlands Railway line. It was at one point in it’s history part of the main line but now is a cycle/walking trail encompassing two viaducts and five tunnels so I am hoping to be impressed. I first heard about it from a TV programme ‘Railway Walks’ with Julia Bradbury - I remember she said that she grew up around here and even interviewed her own dad on the programme!
1147 After leaving the main road near Bakewell and following a bridleway that rises to the North of the town I find the start of the trail off an unassuming minor road. It starts ordinarily enough, passing by upland farmland rather than hugging the river valley because the Duke of Rutland did not want the railway passing too close to Haddon Hall. Soon, however, the trail turns interesting: a long, dimly lit tunnel emerges onto the iconic Monsal Head viaduct high above the winding River Wye, and the scenery opens out into a fantastic Peak District vista of dales, crags and deep valleys. The viaduct can only be fully appreciated when you are not standing right on it so I walk some way out on a footpath to get a better view and take a few photos. It looks even better from a distance and I always marvel how the Victorians managed to build these things.
Continuing westwards the scenery gets even more stunning with the trail clinging to the side of the limestone gorge on a man-made buttress. (If you would like to see a video of a cycle through a tunnel it’s here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tdmEGSh7YI. At regular intervals you will see the recessed refuges used by navvies working in the tunnel to dodge the trains. It must have been pretty scary and very smokey).
1147 After leaving the main road near Bakewell and following a bridleway that rises to the North of the town I find the start of the trail off an unassuming minor road. It starts ordinarily enough, passing by upland farmland rather than hugging the river valley because the Duke of Rutland did not want the railway passing too close to Haddon Hall. Soon, however, the trail turns interesting: a long, dimly lit tunnel emerges onto the iconic Monsal Head viaduct high above the winding River Wye, and the scenery opens out into a fantastic Peak District vista of dales, crags and deep valleys. The viaduct can only be fully appreciated when you are not standing right on it so I walk some way out on a footpath to get a better view and take a few photos. It looks even better from a distance and I always marvel how the Victorians managed to build these things.
Continuing westwards the scenery gets even more stunning with the trail clinging to the side of the limestone gorge on a man-made buttress. (If you would like to see a video of a cycle through a tunnel it’s here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4tdmEGSh7YI. At regular intervals you will see the recessed refuges used by navvies working in the tunnel to dodge the trains. It must have been pretty scary and very smokey).
The Trail has a number of information boards along it’s route and even a gizmo that works like a clockwork radio – you select a channel, turn a handle and it spews out audio history anecdotes. I liked the one about everyone having to hold onto their plates in the restaurant car while the trains turned a particularly sharp bend at Rowsley station!
1329 Reach the Western end of the trail near Buxton where some enterprising chap has set up cycle hire and a basic cafe in a wooden shed where I shelter from the cold wind and indulge in a hot mug of coffee. The real ruler of the place is a energetic short-legged dog who insists that you throw a lump of wood which he duly fetches. I soon discovered that he will play this game ad infinitum with whoever is passing through.
I was going to return to Matlock via a different route but have enjoyed it so much I take the trail back to Bakewell. Rain is coming on more heavily but this doesn’t dampen my spirits – the Monsal Trail is a great ride and I’m glad I’ve done it. It can even hold a candle to the Camel Trail – better and more interesting in some parts - but doesn’t have the beauty of the estuary.
1500 Take the main A6 through Bakewell, of the tart fame, though in the town they call them Puddings. A very tourist-dependent place and I don’t blame them as it's undeniably pretty. It could do with a bypass, but I can’t see where you'd put it. Got back just in time to catch the 1536 from Matlock which puts me an hour ahead of my schedule to get to my b and b.
1717 Change at Tamworth - a concrete block of a station unusual for being at the meeting point of two railway lines that cross each other at right angles, one above the other.
2128 End the day staying at Fairways Motel, Rugeley. Rugeley is dominated by two coal-fired power stations and is the sort of place to pass through as quickly as possible rather than stay at. However, the proprietor is very jolly and even let's me use his hosepipe to wash the Derbyshire mud from my bike. It’s a good base from which to launch my next excursion – Cannock Chase.
1329 Reach the Western end of the trail near Buxton where some enterprising chap has set up cycle hire and a basic cafe in a wooden shed where I shelter from the cold wind and indulge in a hot mug of coffee. The real ruler of the place is a energetic short-legged dog who insists that you throw a lump of wood which he duly fetches. I soon discovered that he will play this game ad infinitum with whoever is passing through.
I was going to return to Matlock via a different route but have enjoyed it so much I take the trail back to Bakewell. Rain is coming on more heavily but this doesn’t dampen my spirits – the Monsal Trail is a great ride and I’m glad I’ve done it. It can even hold a candle to the Camel Trail – better and more interesting in some parts - but doesn’t have the beauty of the estuary.
1500 Take the main A6 through Bakewell, of the tart fame, though in the town they call them Puddings. A very tourist-dependent place and I don’t blame them as it's undeniably pretty. It could do with a bypass, but I can’t see where you'd put it. Got back just in time to catch the 1536 from Matlock which puts me an hour ahead of my schedule to get to my b and b.
1717 Change at Tamworth - a concrete block of a station unusual for being at the meeting point of two railway lines that cross each other at right angles, one above the other.
2128 End the day staying at Fairways Motel, Rugeley. Rugeley is dominated by two coal-fired power stations and is the sort of place to pass through as quickly as possible rather than stay at. However, the proprietor is very jolly and even let's me use his hosepipe to wash the Derbyshire mud from my bike. It’s a good base from which to launch my next excursion – Cannock Chase.
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