Thirty years ago I remember seeing Dawlish beach through the window of the Paddington to Penzance train as it worms through south Devon on its way to Cornwall, the track hugging the coast just behind the sea wall. I hardly know this part of the country at all which for a West countryman is a disgrace. Time to put that right today with a 50@fifty trip, taking in Exeter’s cathedral - yes another one and why not? I like them - on the way.
0828 The weather is dry and mild but the greyness of the thick cloud overhead dulls the light and threatens showers later. I'm due to arrive in Exeter Central at a quarter to eleven so I settle down to snooze and gaze out of the window.
1100 Hats off to Devon they have made a really pretty off-road cycle trail along the West bank of the Exe. I pick it up just outside the station where there is a wide level crossing that leads to the river. Here the modern-looking levees are topped by a tarmac path which gives a great view of the city on the far side. The river curves away invitingly and I put on a burst of speed and stretching my legs after the confines of the carriage.
There is plenty of riverside heritage to look at on the way and there has been engineering in the past which has led to interesting locks, weirs and a ship canal. Given the short day I don’t feel I have time to do much other than take a few snaps, read the information boards and press on towards Dawlish. A flock of geese in the adjacent field is too busy nibbling away at the grass to take any notice as I whizz by.
It’s the middle of the day and the weather is turning blustery with intermittent showers. The estuary widens and exposes mudflats and channels with the odd passenger plying up and down. The trail starts to follow the railway trackside and more than one train passes by. I intend to do the return journey by train and I’m already looking forward to it.
1350 The last bit of the trail to Dawlish is a bit of a shock to the system after the flat ride along the riverside as it’s a steep hill. Dawlish itself is a funny little town. A surprisingly full river cascades down a series of shallow weirs to the beach and the railway track is about as close to the sea as you can get without actually wetting the rails, though judging by the amount of rust on the metalwork of the station a wetting is exactly what they get during winter storms.
1420 A rainbow appears over the Exe on the way back which I manage to photograph from my seat in the carriage. It's a shame I didn't have more time to spend looking at wildlife but I really wanted to get to the cathedral before it gets dark.
The brown spire of St Michael and all Angels parish church dominates the skyline as we pull into Exeter St Thomas station.
1445 Make my way to the buff-coloured, somewhat squat-looking west end of the cathedral. Some of the statuary has seen better days it looks as if the conservationists have had a hand in insisting they keep old stone amongst the new.
Inside, evensong is just about to start so I join in. Normally there are plenty of seats for these things but today the Cathedral school is having an open day so the regular choir is augmented by fifty or so would-be mini choristers looking bemused along with doting parents, grandparents and siblings so the place is chocker. Good singing though and the sung items are more accessible than normal.
After the service I wander around. It's not got so many of the relics and interest that other more famous cathedrals have but the fan vaulting and the ceiling bosses are superb. The staff are friendly too which isn't always the case. Spend quite a few minutes flat on my back looking at the ceiling through a pair of binoculars. There is an unusual Crown of Thorns sculpture hanging suspended in one side chapel which looks heavy enough for anyone. By five o clock it’s getting dark and the place is closing up so I meander outside. It looks like a ‘St Pauls copycat’ protest has set up camp outside as there are a number of tents pitched along the north side. They must be freezing.
1420 A rainbow appears over the Exe on the way back which I manage to photograph from my seat in the carriage. It's a shame I didn't have more time to spend looking at wildlife but I really wanted to get to the cathedral before it gets dark.
The brown spire of St Michael and all Angels parish church dominates the skyline as we pull into Exeter St Thomas station.
1445 Make my way to the buff-coloured, somewhat squat-looking west end of the cathedral. Some of the statuary has seen better days it looks as if the conservationists have had a hand in insisting they keep old stone amongst the new.
Inside, evensong is just about to start so I join in. Normally there are plenty of seats for these things but today the Cathedral school is having an open day so the regular choir is augmented by fifty or so would-be mini choristers looking bemused along with doting parents, grandparents and siblings so the place is chocker. Good singing though and the sung items are more accessible than normal.
After the service I wander around. It's not got so many of the relics and interest that other more famous cathedrals have but the fan vaulting and the ceiling bosses are superb. The staff are friendly too which isn't always the case. Spend quite a few minutes flat on my back looking at the ceiling through a pair of binoculars. There is an unusual Crown of Thorns sculpture hanging suspended in one side chapel which looks heavy enough for anyone. By five o clock it’s getting dark and the place is closing up so I meander outside. It looks like a ‘St Pauls copycat’ protest has set up camp outside as there are a number of tents pitched along the north side. They must be freezing.
I think I have partly achieved my aim down here in deepest Devon as I feel I know the place a little better. To misquote, time to Go East, old man.
No comments:
Post a Comment